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Tim and I are in the airport at a self-service kiosk to print out our boarding passes.  There is a computer problem not locating our ticket confirmation number, so we ask a nearby Hawaiian Airlines employee for help.  Right now is a good time to mention the lack of Aloha spirit in Hawaii.  Tim explains the situation to this airline employee, and the man cuts in front of him to get at the computer.  This man takes our credit card and swipes it for our flight details.  No luck.  Then he sees a piece of paper sticking out of a book Tim is holding.  He questions if our confirmation number is on that piece of paper.  Tim clearly states it is not, and then this gentlemen pulls that paper out of Tim’s book.  Tim raises his voice and says “I told you that was not it”, as it had our orders on it.  He shrugged and walked off, so then we walk away and proceed to an open terminal check-in.  Following this, we take our luggage to the x-ray machine, where the airport staff here are just as rude.  Years ago, you used to hear of Hawaii’s hospitality.  Other than Traci at the Strawberry Guava B & B, no one else stuck out in our minds as being overly friendly or welcoming this entire trip.  We board the small plane and have a 50 minute flight back to Oahu, before boarding another aircraft into Hilo on the Big Island.  Without any mention of it, we are airborne before knowing we were taking off.  The condensation leaked from the vents throughout today’s flights, which made for a cold chill on board.  We were offered either pineapple or guava juice and paper towels for the dripping during the flights.  Mahalo.  This Hawaiian term typically means “Thank You.”  Simple flight back into Oahu.  Now for an hour layover.  Not much to do.  Breakfast shops in the airport were just opening as we landed, so bought a sandwich and waited for boarding.  Yes, I was still feeling the effects of my previous sunburn if you’re wondering.  The next leg of this flight was a bit longer, just over an hour, and soon enough, we were back on the ground.  Flying inter-island, the views were spectacular, since our traveling altitude was only about 25,000 feet.  We took several photos in the air.  Arriving into Hilo, we go to baggage claim for our stash of luggage and proceed to the ticket counter for our rental car.  Our time on this island will be slightly shorter, but still worth driving the island nonetheless with a car.  First impression of the Big Island is that it is much flatter than Kauai.  As we drive, we stop along the way for photos of a mini-waterfall by the side of the road.   North of Hilo, we stop at a bakery for a quick bite before entering Akaka Falls State Park on the Hamakua Coast.  The farther north we drive, we more the landscape changes.  Becomes more hilly with seaside views.  This state park features two waterfalls, the largest being Akaka Falls, a 442 foot drop and Kahuna Falls, a 100 foot drop.  This rain forest receives 84 inches of rain per year and is lush and green.  The park includes a .4 mile loop trail to view both waterfalls.  Hawaii is gorgeous, and places like these only prove just how scenic it is.  We stay there for awhile taking photographs of the flora and falls, then continue the drive up the Hamakua Coast.  Not many places to stop for lunch as the majority of the population on this large island is either southeast in Hilo or southwest near Kona.  The little town of Honokaa was where we found Jolene’s Kau Kau Korner for a sandwich and fries.  Not fancy inside, just a simple diner where we sat near the window.  Tim and I continued driving until we came to Waipio Valley Lookout.  Wow.  Known as the “Valley of the Kings”, this area is sacred and historical., as this was the childhood home of King Kamehameha I.  Measuring approximately 1 mile across and 5 miles deep, along with 2000 foot cliffs on the sides, this overlook is spectacular.  Apparently, there is a very steep drive down into the valley which is strongly discouraged and guided hikes are permitted on certain days. Waipio Valley is home to less than 100 residents, the Big Island’s most impressive waterfall, Hiilawe Falls, which cascades down 1300 feet, taro fields, and a river running through.  Panoramic views from this overlook.  Enjoying the scenery for about 1/2 hour, we then check our watches.  Half the day is over, and still a long drive south to find our next bed and breakfast.  Therefore, we get back in the car and take the alternate route south through the craters.  This way takes you right through the center of the island.  Kauai was consistently lush, green, and mountainous.  The Big Island has offered flat fields, lush and green mountainous cliff faces, and now we’re driving through volcano land, where it can’t get any more dry and barren.  I have never been to Death Valley, but I imagine it would look something like this.  No growth anywhere.  Just dead land.  Almost eerie.  Miles and miles of dark and gray, imagining how volatile this place must have been.  We arrive at our accommodation, Volcano Inn, and find this to be an interesting place, very secluded amongst rain forest.  The owner asks us to take off our shoes as we enter the door and walk up the stairs to his office for check-in.  There are apparently two buildings, so the room with the corner view we reserved is at their other location.  Hmm.  Secluded cottages set off the road among the forest.  There is a hot tub inside a small pavilion surrounded by flora and trees which line the pathway to our duplex cottage.   Luckily it is just us for the duration of our stay.  We open the door to a cozy room.  And yes, there is a corner view of the rain forest which surrounds you.  Beautiful!  So this place is eco-friendly by capturing the rain water, using solar hot water systems, etc.  Okay.  Since the owner never brought us to this property, there was never any mention if the water is potable, but there are water bottles everywhere.  We’re in the US and no drinking water?  Never a dull moment on our vacations.  And our “cottage instructions” in the book next to the bed tell us that the floors must be swept or we will be charged.   The book was a little much.  I am very excited for Volcano National Park.  Prior to this trip home, I had been checking the direction of the lava flows.  Currently, it does spill to the ocean, and if possible, I wanted to take the hike to see it.  Dinner in the town of Volcano is scarce.  At the owner’s restaurant recommendation, we go to the Kiawe Kitchen.  Very good Italian restaurant.  Small and quaint, long wait for food, but the food was delicious.  We ordered glasses of wine with our meals, appetizers, and entrees.  I am sure dessert was not overlooked.  Food in Hawaii is very pricey, bordering Australia’s prices, especially after you factor in tip.  After a great meal, I pleaded with Tim to enter the National Park for the lava glow from Kilauea Caldera, which we did.  We were slightly confused on how this works.  Thinking that it would be a long drive to see the lava glow, he was hesitant to drive us into the park.  It turns out that the viewing area for Kilauea is just inside the park, whereas the lengthy drive to start the hike for the lava spilling was what we were misunderstanding.  We were also told that you had to be in the park by 8pm to see the lava, which we were.  Having not spent any time at the Visitor’s Center prior to us simply going at night is not recommended, especially if you have questions.  I thought it was quite interesting staring at the orange glow and looking up at the stars.  Tim’s impression was that it was nothing more than a campfire, without actually seeing the fire.  We stayed there as long as we could handle the colder temperatures before driving the short distance back to our accommodation that evening.  No hot tub for me with a sunburn.  We got up the next morning and after using solar heated showers, calling our parents (finally, just a basic long distance call!), we headed back into town at a convenience store for a quick breakfast of snacks and pastries.  Today was our only day to enjoy Volcano National Park, so we wanted to make the most of it.  We pay the entrance fees and stop off at the visitor’s center to ask about recommendations for the day.  Of course, I asked the ranger about the dangers of attempting the unmarked trail to find the lava spilling into the ocean.  Highly dangerous and absolutely not recommended.  Being an active volcano, the direction the lava flows is always changing.  Years past when it was spilling into the ocean at a different location, there was apparently a much simpler way to see it.  The shifting patterns make it difficult to plan a trip though!  In fact, the ranger never guaranteed that by doing that 10 mile one way hike, you would actually get to see the lava.  Apparently, the lava falls below where you would be standing., so again, you would only see a lava glow.  Anyway, slightly bummed, we drive back onto the crater drive for a day view of Kilauea Caldera.  Hmmm.  Very different looking than the night before.  You can see its opening and the steam pouring out of it.  There is a steam vent hiking trail which offers additional vents in the vicinity, which we did.  The faint smells reminded me of a few geysers in Yellowstone.  This area is so desolate; you can see for miles.  No trees anywhere.  We continue to drive the perimeter of Crater Rim Road to locate the Thurston Lava Tube, and the landscape is changing.  You are now entering more lush areas of the park on the east side.  This lava tube was discovered in 1913 and is just off the Pu’u Pua’i Overlook.  It is a 20 minute walk down to and inside the dark tube.  Creepy to think that hundreds of years ago, there was a riverbed of lava flowing through.  Nice trail down to the bottom passing through forests, listening to birds.  You would never think that you were still in Volcano National Park.  This lava tube has been altered so that it can be viewed publicly.  Dim lighting has been added and flat pathways cut out so people can walk safely.  The tube continued on and for those daring to walk in the pitch darkness could do so.  I was one of the smarter ones who came out of the main public exit before I kept walking into the darkness ahead.  Tim continued on into the tube for a longer walk while I waited for him back at the top of the hill.  This entire year I have been deathly afraid of spiders, and being inside that tube was just not something I was comfortable with.  He remarked later that he enjoyed the stillness of being away from people.  Back near the visitor’s center was an art gallery, which we stopped and I purchased a beautiful pair of earrings as a souvenir.  It was time for lunch, so back out of the park and into the town of Volcano, for a cafe serving sandwiches.  We ate outside and enjoyed the people watching here before reentering the park.  “Discussing” what to do next, I win the battle by deciding to drive south on Chain of Craters Road. Yes, the road is very long and windy, 36 miles round trip, and speeds are slow.  The closer you get to the ocean, you get a magnificent view from up high.  Again, so desolate.  Mountains of nothing but ground.  As we drove, the light rain during lunch, is now gone and the sun is coming back out.  We get to the bottom of the mountain and park for a walk to view a rock formation of a sea arch.  The road is blocked off, because approximately 10 years ago, lava crossed the road and spilled into the ocean here.  Now, you must park your car much further up than you originally would have and walk over the hardened lava.  That was an experience, especially to see it hardened across the road.  We even captured a photo of a speed limit sign mostly buried in the lava as well.  Fascinating.  It was very windy here, so it would have been nice to have on a hat, even it was warm outside.  We hiked on the lava a bit further up and way off in the distance, you can see steam rising up from the ocean.  That location is where the lava currently spills, which, again you cannot get to for proper viewing.  Otherwise, I would have.  Magnificent walk on the lava though.  Had to be careful at all times where you step, because there were holes you had to jump over, and with an uneven and rough surface, you could easily fall or sprain your ankle.  Well worth the drive down here to the south side of the park.  Hawaii Volcano National Park is comprised of 230,000 acres, so there was no way to see all of it, minus the large portions you do not even have access to, but for what we saw today was very good for me.  We make the drive north back on Chain of Craters Road for a spontaneous decision to hike inside a crater.  With only a short amount of daylight left, we decide to hike Kilauea Iki crater, which is near the Thurston Lava Tube.  We visit the overlook and it really is impressive, at a mile long, 3000 feet across and 400 feet down to its floor.  Although tired from hiking for the day, we make the trek down the steep trail to the floor.  The area surrounding the lava tube is very lush, and so was the hike down inside this crater.  Only flattened lava rock at the bottom of the crater.  It was after sunset when we got to the bottom for photos, so it was already time to make the trip back up.  This hiking trail was 4 miles round trip, so we had to pick up the pace.  We followed its rim around until we were back at the car.  So glad we did this.  Quite a different experience inside the crater versus looking down into it.  Pure isolation at the bottom.  Anyway, it is dark and we are very tired now, so a dinner at the Thai Thai place in Volcano was just what we were looking for.  Tim will always choose chicken satay, where I enjoyed the green curry this evening.  The spicier, the better!  Very tasty, and the finishing touch to our meal was mango and sticky rice.  Delicious.  We had an early start the next morning to check-out, return the car, and fly into Oahu for our final night in Hawaii.  Went to bed, slept fast, and up again at the airport.  Our flight was short, as we landed in Oahu and looked for a taxi to take us to the Hale Koa Hotel.  Being here only one day and one night, it seemed silly to rent a car.  First impression of Oahu was crazy busy.  Kauai and the Big Island were not nearly this touristy.  Condominiums, high-rise hotels, and shopping malls everywhere.  Traffic congestion, horns honking, not very relaxing in my opinion.  We arrive at the resort, and it looks good!  This hotels is for government and military employees only, so prices are technically cheaper than mainstream Hawaii hotels.  We arrive at 10am before our scheduled check-in time, which we expected, so our room was not ready.  Walking the grounds, we realize just how large this property is.  Two different room towers, several outside swimming pools, restaurants, coffee shops, and the open-air lobby offers large sitting  areas.  After staying in 2 previous “no frills” bed and breakfasts, we planned to take advantage of a little pampering here.  We settled in at one of their outside cafes for a quick bite to eat, enjoying the sunshine and ocean views.  Walking further to the beach, we notice the oceanfront bar before coming back in to the resort to see what else we’ve missed.  We waited near the lobby an hour later with hopes to receive an early check-in, as suggested by the hotel staff.  Not a long wait at all before a bellhop collects our bags, and we get to our room.  A decent side ocean view from our 11th floor balcony.  Tim and I relaxed in the sun (actually the shade) for awhile before deciding to take a swim.  Why go to the pool, if the ocean is right there?  No waves here, so it was a great swim.  The water is clear.  We met another couple swimming in the water who said the snorkeling here was not that great, so we passed on the opportunity.  While we were in the water, a kid lost his raft, and as it floated farther away, Tim willingly offered to get it.  He was exhausted when he swam back to me!  Felt so good to be in the ocean again.  We stayed in for several hours before walking back to the room and changing into evening wear.  Tim and I were to meet up with one of his colleagues for sunset drinks, so we headed back down to the beach bar.  Loved it.  Just set me up with a tab, and I could be very happy here.  Sipping cocktails overlooking the water was exactly where I was meant to be.  His colleague left after awhile, and with it being Labor Day Weekend, we celebrated with fireworks that night!  Unbelievable.  Right over the ocean and just to our right.  After the display, it was around 9pm, so we were now ready for dinner.  Enjoying the warm night, we didn’t walk too far back through the resort to find Bibas for dinner.  We ate an Italian dinner outside near the fountain and chatted about our travels this past year.  Sipping wine with our meal, we were completely relaxed and dreading a long flight the next day.  Going to bed that night, as great as this resort is, the rooms are not very soundproof.  At 4am, I had enough of the obnoxious male crowd next door.  I called the front desk to sort out the noise problem, and after hearing a knock at their door, with several of the men saying “who reported us”, I thought to myself that, hopefully, they didn’t want to cause anymore trouble.  Finally falling asleep around 4:30am, later that morning left us with a few bloodshot eyes.  Taking a stroll along the beach was how we spent our final hours on Oahu before having to take a taxi back to the airport.  Not much of a beach actually.  The Hale Koa Hotel had a nicer and larger beach area than other hotels we passed.  I can get used to bellhops too.  Anyway, our flight brought us into LAX for a several hour layover before we then took a red eye flight into Baltimore.  Tim’s parents had offered to pick us up at the airport; however, the dates got somehow mixed up.  Wondering an hour later as to their no-show, we called and woke them up, before they drove to greet us another hour later.  We are back home for good.  Months later, I still have mixed feelings about that.  Hawaii is a great place to visit, if you never get to experience the other side of the world.  The islands are bursting with activity and the scenery is absolutely stunning; however, it is very touristy, expensive, and the locals are not overly friendly or helpful.  If you are on a budget, go to Hawaii, but if you want a life-changing experience, save your money and take an extended vacation to Australia.  You will then understand how Australia had become our home.

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